I have the 7Art 25 1.8 and the Meike 35 1.7, and FD 50 1.4 Chrome nose, Quantaray 135 2.8 & Canon 300 4.0. It depends on what you want to shoot, but all the mf glass is very cheap and has pretty good iq.

As promised here's a follow-up comparison shots between 7artisans 25mm f1.8, Sony FE28mm f2.0, Sony PZ 18-105 f4.0. In the last few weeks, we covered a couple of new Chinese Fujifilm X mount lenses here on FujiRumors, such as the brand new 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro and the Kamlan 50mm f/1.1 MK II. You can give the magnifying assist feature another try. The E-M1 has a really nice EVF. So the experience will be much better than the one you had before. Finally, the metal bayonet mount is well made and the lens fits smoothly. There is absolutely no rotational play when the lens is mounted.

Buy. Sell. Trade. Create.

After reading the positive posts about the little Pergear 25mm from Sr.Cordeiro and jbroon37, I'm more than a little impressed. Some years ago I got the M43 version of this lens and was totally surprised by how good it was. That said, I quite like it. It's small, has surprisingly good close focus performance (where the Fuji 23/2 is weakest) and dirt cheap. My only question is: does anyone know who actually makes Pergear lenses? I've done a bit of research and come up with almost nothing, except for an interesting tidbit: apparently, both Pergear lenses and Brightin Star lenses are, for all intents and purposes, identical.

This lens is fully manual — there’s no auto focus (and no electronics) in this lens. Because there’s no electronic connection between camera and the lens, camera can’t actually detect that lens has been placed into the mount. To be able to shoot pictures with fully manual lens, you need to configure your Fuji camera to “shoot without lens” in the menu. To help with focusing, I use a DIY Sugru to mold a focusing tab on the focusing ring, it helps me quite a bit. https://alikgriffin.com/pergear-25mm-f1-8-first-impressions-sample-images-a-few-problems-but-a-ton-of-fun/ Honestly, the only thing I don't really like is how the lens looks with the shiny chrome front, but that's subjective. The image quality is superb for what you pay and it is my favorite of all the cheap lenses I've tried. I can post photos later if needed.focusing ring and aperture ring too close together, easy to move aperture ring unintentionally while focusing, the problem is negated with a sugru focusing tab in extremely sunny weather it seems to be sometimes difficult to see what’s in focus and what’s not. I had this problem particularly on snow — snow produced a lot of highlights in the viewfinder which is again similar to focus peaking highlights. I mis-focused several images because of this. Split image manual focus assist might be better in this use case. I also think lenses like this mark a new era in affordable, quality manual focus lenses with native mirrorless camera lens mounts. A great era we live in. So for me - unless the 8cm gain in Dof with a headshot is a dealbreaker - my advice is get out your old film camera kit and have a go with the old technology before you pay up for a new lens ------- unless the vignetting, field edge distortion and "toy camera" look is what you want - but then, just add an online filter in post-processing and have a much more controlled version of the same. Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

Distortion measures +0.10% pincushion, which is so close to being rectilinear as makes no difference. Even at the edges, straight lines will remain as straight lines, making it an excellent choice for architectural shots.With all that said, manual focusing is quite enjoyable. As I understand this is a big difference compared to the first generation where the focusing ring placement made manual focusing awkward. I like the short focus throw of the lens, it's less than 1/3 turn from infinity down to 0.6 feet. Not too short of a throw, but much better than many of my legacy macro lenses where you have to turn the ring almost 3/4 for full range. I also like the textured machining on either side of the focus ring, very nice to operate with one finger. Optical construction is 15 elements in 10 groups, including 2 Aspherical and 3 ED (Extra-Low Dispersion). The diaphragm comprises 9 rounded blades, intended to improve bokeh. Weather resistance is a virtual necessity if we are to venture out in all weathers and conditions. There is no OIS (Optical Image Stabilisation) but there is in-body stabilisation in several Fuji bodies. I received my lens on the 21st of this month when I watched the solar eclipse from my front walkway :-). The only complaint I have is the focus scale, which is sufficiently at odds with the reality through the EVF to make scale/zone focus a non-starter. The barrel contains feet and metre distance engravings, progressing (in feet) from 0.6, 1, 2, 5, 16 and infinity markings. Subjects at approximately 5ft - pin sharp at f1.8 though the EVF - showed closer to the 16 ft than 5 ft markings, and the void between the two makes hyperfocal shooting a gamble. It's possible, but you'd have to work out your own sweet spot and most users will confirm distance through the viewfinder. I assume the discrepancy is the result of the same lens being produced for a variety of sensor formats.

DoF - well if this really is your critical need - then just get a legacy 50mm F1.8 lens (becomes a 100mm equivalent on an MFT camera) and at 2 meters focus distance the DoF will be only 8cm while the kit zoom at 42mm will have a DoF of 37cm at F5.6 and 2 metres focus point. It looks like the lable “ made in China” is no longer something photographers are too skeptical of.Center sharpness is very good even wide open and hard to discern between the 7artisans vs. my Sony FE28mm F2.0. However corners are a complete different story. They are very soft wide open with vignetting and progressively get better to F8 - where it's pretty much gone. when shooting in low light, viewfinder is usually quite noisy and it’s difficult to see what is in focus and what isn’t. The main problem here is that focus peaking highlight looks quite similar to the noise in the viewfinder. To mitigate this, you can set the highlight to red color. Also in low light you typically use wide aperture which makes it even more difficult.