The majority of router bits that feature a bearing normally also include bearings of different sizes with the bit or in the kit. As the bearing follows the object your are working on, the size of bearing dictates the depth of the cut, so for a different depth of cut you can simply change the bearing for a different size. Or I could use my new table saw to cut twice and get a rabbet like that... but I was wondering why I'm finding it difficult to source this - usually there's a reason, right? A rabbet joint is stronger than a typical butt joint—which is simply two straight edges joined together—because a rabbet provides more of a mechanical connection. Cutting the rabbet creates more surface area where the wood can be glued and therefore creates a stronger joint than simply nailing or gluing together two straight edges. For an even stronger rabbet joint, opt for a double rabbet joint where rabbets are cut into both edges of the adjoining workpieces. Rabbet joints vs. dado joints

Essentially the shank is the part of the bit that your router collet grips on to so that when the motor is running it allows the bit to rotate and do its work. Generally, router bit shanks are available in two different sizes; 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. The depth of the cut is determined by the size of bearing fixed to the base of the bit and due to this, rabbet bits normally come with a selection of different sized bearings so that you can cut a range of different depth joints. A lot of timber we buy over here is 19mm, isn't it? How best do we cut a rabbet that's 19mm wide by some depth? I'd have thought a router bit was the way to go.To determine the locations and dimensions of each of the dadoes and rabbets on the bookcase, use the free woodworking plan available for this project. Dadoes and Rabbets Defined

Easy to disassemble: You can usually separate a rabbet joint by removing screws and pounding with a rubber mallet. Joints made with nails and dowels are usually easy to pry apart. Attractive: You can place the seam where it isn’t visible — say, under a countertop — and the fasteners can be hidden with filler or made from doweling.Actually with a side fence and, say, a 20mm 2-flute straight cutter you could do straight rebate - the thing is you'd need to do it in incremental depth passes of 1 to 3mm (assuming in MDF or ply). This is at best tedious, but depending on the base you have in the router it may prove very difficult to get two cuts of the same depth.

You’ll find rabbet joints most often in cabinets, drawers and shelving, but there are many other uses for rabbets in general construction. Woodworkers like them because they are:

How to Cut Perfect Dadoes

Dadoes and grooves are flat-bottomed recesses that strengthen supporting shelves and connecting panels. A dado runs perpendicular to the grain of the wood while a groove runs parallel to the grain. What is a Rabbet? A rabbet is like a dado that’s missing a side. It’s essentially a notch cut into the edge of a board or piece of plywood. Unlike performing any of these tasks using other tools such as planes or saws, a router with the correct bit will give a 100% accurate and clean cut when used correctly. As you may have guessed from the shape of the bit in the image below, the core cutting bit cuts channels and shapes with a concave bottom. You only need to mark one edge of the dado. Then draw an “X” to indicate which side of the mark the dado goes on. A good tip is to make three, not just two, marks across the workpiece. Then when you line up your straightedge with the marks, if one of the marks doesn’t line up, you’ll know you’ve made a layout mistake. Clamp the First Guide

This project should be read in conjunction with our project on how to use a router found here. What are the Different Parts of a Router Bit?

How to Cut Perfect Rabbets

The chamfer or bevel cutting bit is commonly used for shaping the edges of objects such as book shelves, work tops and table tops and any other object where a sharp 90° edge needs to be removed. As with chamfer bits, it’s generally used on the edges of shelves, tabletop and cabinet edges the arms of chairs and any other area that requires a smooth edge. A rabbet is simply a groove cut into the side or end of a wooden plank or panel. It’s a channel with an extrusion (called the tongue) and one vertical side. It’s similar to a dado, a groove cut across the face of a plank or panel with two vertical sides. Because rabbets are related to dados, you can use the same tools to cut them. How Do Rabbet Joints Work? The worst base for this sort of work is actually the standard fixed base, which has a very small footprint and only takes Makita's own guide bush (which is 9.5 or 10mm from memory, AFAIK no other sizes available). It isn't difficult to make a larger (more stable) sub base from acrylic plastic (Perspex, Lucite, etc) or polycarbonate (Lexan, etc), in any shape you like, such as an egg shape with an offset handle. A better base for your purposes is the plunge base, which can be set up to allow repeatable depth cuts. It is more stable, too, because it has a bigger footprint than the fixed base, and has the advantage of being able to take Porter-Cable guide bushes when used with a commonly available adaptor. That gives you the ability to do template routing with a selection of guide bushes. The plunge base can also be used with the same micro adjustable side fence that is sold for the Makita RP1110 router (and is compatible with other fences from Bosch and DW) The deeper the rabbet is, the more support it provides. The vertical side also makes it easier to align the pieces of wood forming the joint. How To Make a Rabbet Joint